Cabled Wrap Sweater--cost to make $7.96!

Currently, Michael's has Loops and Threads Charisma listed at $1.99 per skein.  YIPPEE.  I've had good luck with this yarn, and it comes in 35 different colors.  Sadly, again, my stores only carry about 5 of them.  And 3 of those are the stripe and multi-colored ones that make me want to jab my eyes out with a set of DPNs.  Sigh. 
The link to the yarn is here:  http://www.michaels.com/loops-and-threads-charisma-yarn/M10133746.html


An original pattern I've created that some may recognize as an adaptation of $$$ Etsy sweaters is the Cabled Wrap Sweater.  This version is quick to knit in bulky Charisma using size 10 needles. 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cabled-wrap-sweater

So, at $1.99 per skein, that's a $7.96 sweater that sells on Etsy for well over $150.  I know, labor is expensive (and should be), but, as many of us want to knit a $-looking gift for less $, this sweater is a win-win.  The list price of the yarn is $4.99 = a $19.96 project...definitely still doable.  Actual cost of the sweater shown was $15.96, at $3.99 a skein. 
Charisma calls for a larger needle, but, cabled patterns are stretchy and you want this one to hold together in the purl sections to avoid gaping.  This is why the size 10 works.  It is a bit harder on your hands, but, the product is worth it.
This sweater is very warm.  Also, I've tried knitting the pattern in a super-bulky yarn.  This worked ok for a friend that actually has "chest parts" if you know what I mean.  I have none...really...and it didn't work.  After knitting in a bulky yarn, I think the end result is much better. 
This pattern is extremely easy to knit!    If you haven't tried cables before, DO!  You will be surprised at how easy it really is--not much more difficult than knit/purl.  The results are well worth it--I loveeeeee cables.
If you are ready to move on from endless scarves, this is a great next step.  Why?  because it's essentially a scarf that's seamed to make the sweater. 
The back looks like this

Using a garter stitch back panel, again, knit as a long scarf in one piece, the back will "stand up" and not sag or creep up.  I've made some all-cabled versions, and this was my issue.  The garter ridges can either be offset (as above) or seamed more in-line with the garter edge of the cable section of the panel. Do NOT be tempted to modify with a seed stitch back.  I love seed stitch and love the rigidity it produces, however, it won't work here as seed stitch is much wider, and the back panel will "fan out" = horrible, horrible, horrible.  Yes, I tried, failed, ripped out...


The pattern is available at http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cabled-wrap-sweater

Easy Girl's Knitted Cape Pattern

Ravelry Pattern Download


The first cape I knitted was not the pink one you see here...it was a Little Red Riding Hood with seed stitch edges.  Why Little Red Riding Hood?  Because my niece was 3 and didn't have a color preference.  Also, who can resist a 3 year old running around with a pointy red hooded cape on? 
Fast forward to the ripe old age of 6, and we have serious color preference.  In order, pink, light pink, other pinks, purple, and finally blue.  We also have serious "I love girly things, sparkly things, and all things super cute." 
Thus, Christmas 3 years later, we have pink trimmed in faux fur.
The pattern is available on Ravelry--sizes 3T to girl's 8.
It is seriously cute in both the red/seed stitch and pink/fur combos.  Made in RHSS yarn, it wears well and can withstand many adventures of The Snow Princess. 


Send pics if you knit it up!

FREE KNITTED COWL PATTERN

My goal of posting daily was certainly derailed by Christmas Emergency Knitting. Surprisingly, I got everything done (and we ALL were knitting early Christmas morning, right?)
Actually, I knit daily--and continuous for the most part.  My favorite was my child-size Little Red Riding Hood cape:  this time in pink with white faux fur trim.  I'll post that pattern and a link to Ravelry when I get some better photos.

Today's pattern is for this:

Twist Stitch Knit Cowl

On Christmas day I was busy knocking out a few ribbon barrettes for my niece and finishing her pink knitted cape.  They day after...we were in Christmas "chill-out" mode and as I dug around for a small project to work on, I heard my husband say "Must. Make. SOMETHING." I rolled my eyes and he reminded me that he's close to sending me to anti-crafting therapy.  Seriously, I just hate to sit around.  I can knit simultaneously, so what's the big deal Crafting Grinch?
So, what I finished was the Twist Stitch Knit Cowl.  Extremely easy.  Matches the hat I've already posted.  Awesome for your "after Christmas Christmas gifts."  Or, for yourself, as I'm probably keeping this one : )

THE PATTERN:  EASY  Twist Stitch Knit Cowl

MATERIALS: 

Yarn: Lion Brand Country in Hampton Sunset.  Time will tell to see how it holds up as the yarn has minimal twist.  Approximately 1/2 a skein or less (2 - 2.5 oz required for cowl).  This yarn is very pretty though...I hope it lasts!

Needles:  Size 10.5, circular would be best regardless if you knit it flat and seam or knit in the round.  Example shown was knitted this flat and seamed at the end.

Crochet hook:  5.5 mm or larger

Gauge and Measurements:  Finished cowl is 7" including the Cast on and Cast off edges.  Width is ~18 inches.  This is enough to go over MY head, but I have a kid's sized head.  Simply increase the # of stitches to make it wider. 

Gauge in stitch pattern is 10 st x 16 r = 4 inches.

INSTRUCTIONS

Pattern stitch: Twist knit.  If you need more details than what is shown below, see the post on the matching hat

Row 1:   Purl (ws)

Row 2:  ktbl (rs) 

(To knit in the round, alternate twist ktbl rounds with plain k rounds)

To begin:  Cast on 45 stitches or # of stitches sufficient to produce width to go over wearer's head.  45 stitches is on the smaller side, as I have a 6 7/8 size head.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 24 total rows or until you have knitted the length you desire.  I hate overly "stacked" cowls," so this one is shorter.


Cast off knitwise and seam side. 


Using crochet hook add a row of crochet chain just below the cast-off edge and just above the cast-on edge.  If you need more detail here, see the photos with the hat pattern.  (If I were to knit this again, I would probably cast ON differently, likely using a provisional cast on, leaving a very long tail and then removing waste yarn later casting off knitwise to provide a firmer edge.  If you look at the photo above, you can see the cast on edge isn't as crisp.  Regardless, it's a minimal difference.)


Weave in ends.

Edge with crochet chain



Loops and Threads Woolike Great for Socks

Trying the Blogger app. Sock making alllllll day. Woolike seems to be the new fav....so.....MORE COLORS please!

The Colorblind Yarn Picker

I have, in some way, access to three different Michael's locations.  They are all far away, but, as my life would have it, I'm near each of them on at least a weekly basis.
Tis the season for socks.  Good thing because Michael's only carries sock yarn this time of year in our area.  This is what we have available for your (lengthy) sock knitting pleasure:

This is 7 of the possible 12 Sock-Ease yarns by Lion Brand.  You can find the others 5 shown at http://www.lionbrand.com/yarns/sockease.html
As I had never examined the color selection on the website, my initial reaction was to whine about Michael's and their choice of colors.  (Seriously, the colors are much better in the photo than in person.) Now I know better.  LB has only12 colors, and they are just weird.  Some are ok...but how many pink and purple socks can I make?


Possible legit reasons for Y.S. (yarn snobbery):
1.  The local stores never carry a decent selection and we are forever forced to knit with pink or blue baby yarns.
2.  The manufacturer makes limited variety in wonky colors.  Or styles.  Or both.


I honestly think that in most cases, reason #1 prevails.  A quick comparison to what is available in stores as compared to online shows that, at least in my area, that's the reason. 
As for Sock-Ease...UGH.  It's not my favorite for other reasons, but, come on, have you seen these colors?
If anyone has successfully knitted something they like with the crazy colors of this yarn, please share!
However, I still can't understand yarns that become wildly popular--all my friends are knitting with it--I love it--and then it disappears forever.  Sometimes it disappears locally, sometimes entirely.  I'm certainly no yarn-manufacturing expert, but, since a lot of yarn is made in Turkey...and they have Turkish prisons....just saying...

FREE KNITTED MINION BLANKET PATTERN

We travel to horse shows and coach where it is cold.  Everyone loves a cute wrap/throw blankie and everyone loves Minions.  (If you aren't a minion lover--go away.  They are adorable and you know it.  Yes, they are now overly commercialized and everywhere, but, Minions didn't ask for fame--it was simply thrust upon them.)

Minion throw wrapped around a person

So, what follows is a basic throw blanket pattern that can be worked by hand on a longggggg afghan needle.  The one you see was knit using two Incredible Sweater Machines linked together.  Lots of walking to work back and forth is required.


Yarn snobbery also follows to knitting machine snobbery.  About 12 years ago, I started on an Incredible Sweater Machine (called ISMs or USMs) which are plastic and very, very basic.  I was thrilled to get it--using a Michael's 50% off coupon and my Christmas money.  It is pretty neat, and extremely frustrating to get it work...but, like riding a bike, once you get it, you get it.  The ISM can be blamed for one of the few times I let a swear word fly in front of my mother-in-law.  I said the word that follows Hoover, and it's not vacuum. As in the thing that holds back water.  I said it loudly. OK, very loudly. Why?  I got snagged and the entire thing flipped over off of the counter, sending my work, most of the ISMs parts, and a zillion hook-shaped needles everywhere.  What I said pales in comparison to what I was thinking.
Regardless, I've used the ISM successfully on numerous projects, and I think it's a fantastic way to introduce machine knitting to newbies economically.  Also, the "next level" of metal bed machines are so awesome it's hard to describe.  Simply awesome.
However, you can't hook two of these together to knock out large pieces of basic stockinette.  Here, the ISM wins out. 
Following my intro to machine knitting via the ISM, I now own a bunch of higher-end machines that I've collected via Christmas, birthday, and "oh please" (begging) of the hubby over the last 10+ years.  I love each of them, and I've kept my ISM too.
Again, as yarn snobbery is a real thing, so is snobbery toward the ISM.  Sad. 


THE PATTERN:  EASY  MINION THROW
Note, I don't include directions for the crochet circle eye.  My crochet "machine" Katie made the eye, so I'll try to track her down for some directions.  I have included close up photos as it's just DC worked in a circle, so, for those of you who crochet, the pic is probably all you need anyway. 

MATERIALS: 
Yarn:
Shown is Red Heart Super Saver.   Please don't hate me because I didn't write down how much yarn I used...I forgot : (  Amounts below are approximate:
Royal blue:  ~2 skeins
Lemon Yellow:  ~3-4 skeins?
Black < 1 skein for sure
White < 1 skein--only needed for crochet eye
Heather grey <1 skein--only needed for rim of goggle


For a hand knit version, a long afghan needle in size 7 would probably work best. 
For the ISM version, hook 2 ISMs together and use a mid-sized key plate.  For other machines, use a tension somewhere between 3-4 and you will need to seam the panels together before adding the eye or seam as you go. 

Crochet hook:

~5.5 mm hook for single crochet edging.  Note, this edging will prevent rolling of the edge but it will fold over like this in most cases:

Gauge and Measurements
Sorry to be confusing, but in the interest of full disclosure:
When measured over 4":  15 st x 22 R which equates to 3.75 st x 5.5 R per inch
The finished throw is 69" wide by 82" long. 
So, when I do the math--over the whole blanket excluding the DC edging, it comes out to 2.9 st x 4.67 rows.  Weird.  And I did the measurements about 10 times.  For most purposes, the actual size (width/length) isn't critical, but you want it to look "minion-ey."  It took several trials before I got the blue/yellow/black/yellow proportions to my liking. 
INSTRUCTIONS
Step 1.  Cast on 200 stitches. 
Step 2.  Work 188 R Royal Blue, 160 R Lemon Yellow, 20 R Black, 80 R lemon yellow.  Total rows = 378. How long would this take by hand???? That's 75,600 individual stitches! Even with the ISM I walked back and forth for days...
Step 3.  Call Katie, offer yarn in exchange for crochet eye/goggle.  Receive adorable eyeball. 

Step 4.  Apply eye in center of black stripe.
Step 5.  Using pins, decide placement of smirky smile and use crochet hook from RS to pull yarn through from WS to make a chain on the WS.  Follow your pin placement.
Step 6.  Changing colors to match stripes on throw, work double crochet edging in the back seat of the truck on holiday trips while husband is unaware that you are working on his Christmas surprise.  Get carsick.  Continue edging anyway, proceeding carefully as to not barf on project.  
Step 7.  Weave in the 487 loose ends.  I know--it was like 20--but I hate weaving ends.


This throw has been worn, washed, abused in every way known to man.  It has a few pills and picks from the abuse, but, we still hear loud "OHHHH it's so cute!" every where we take it.  HOORAY for Super Saver!

Minion after use and abuse!

 

FREE SUPER BULKY HAT KNITTING PATTERN for fast, useful Christmas present #2

Twisted Stockinette after multiple uses!

Time for "ECP" #2--Emergency Christmas Present.  You can knock out this sucker in less than 2 hours--no ribbing required!


This one is a super easy bulky hat that looks and fits better than one knitted in plain stockinette.  Also, it's not "holey" and freezing cold with large holes between and within the stitches so common in bulky and super bulky yarn knits.


As  previously mentioned, I hate long or floppy scarves (and cowls) and prefer a more fitted version.  I feel the same way about hats--even more so.  I have a tiny kid's size 6 7/8 head, and almost every hat I've knitted for myself (and probably others) stretches out and gets too floppy.  I wanted a nice, firm, fitted look.  I do like the look of crochet hats because they are firm and hold up, but, I'm 99% knitter and a crochet-when-I -must kind of person.  I usually prefer to trade skills with a crochet nut as I have several people around that can crochet circles around me yet do not knit. 


So....about cheap yarns.  The first halfway decent yarn I ever used was worsted weight Lionbrand Wool Ease.  I  hand knitted a simple drop sleeve pullover.  It was OK, not great, at first knit.  After wearing once, and heaven forbid hand washing, the sweater looked horrible--the yarn pilled, didn't hold shape, and I therefore HATE this yarn.  It was simply horrid.  That was years ago, I got burned by a long hand knit project, and the investment wasn't cheap.  Maybe I got a bad lot? 


Perhaps I should try it again on a small project, but, I hold yarn grudges.


My grudge in this instance doesn't carry over to the Wool Ease Thick & Quick.  It holds up well in every project I've tried.  I really like it. 
So, what the heck happened to the worsted version?  I just can't seem to let it go--that stupid grey sweater robbed me.  If anyone has had better luck, please, make a comment and I'll give it another go....maybe. 


The pattern below (and photo above) combines the LB T&Q with a simple stitch that adds a little visual interest, but, more importantly, creates a firm fabric that is perfect for a fitted hat that holds it shape and can withstand the abuse of heavy use.  I would expect that most super bulky yarns with a decent twist would work equally well.  However, as I've mentioned before, a yarn with fluffy, minimal twist wouldn't be a good choice.  Apparently, this yarn comes in 67 colors...so why does Michael's only carry about 6 of them?  
Three things you can bet your life on
1.  if there's a yarn I need--it won't be available
2.  if I love the color, I'll have to order it
3.  if I really need it or I love it...it is discontinued
Back to Christmas...
If you are so behind you "can't be any more behinder" as my brother says, and because this hat works best when fitted for the person, the Christmas solution may be:
1.  Wrap up the yarn or even a print out of the available colors of LB T&Q with the photo above.  In that case, the gift recipient can choose the color they want and you can order some of the neato colors instead of buying locally if necessary. 
2.  Include an awesome card that says "This is to make you a custom, one-of-a-kind, fitted hat just for you!" 
3.  Knit after Christmas.  Do NOT be a loser and not follow through.  (and to the person I owe a sweater from two Christmases ago...I swear I am working on the sleeves.  It was your fault you picked ORANGE.  I feel like I'm knitting a carrot.  Or a prison sweater.)




THE PATTERN

Hat shown flat.  Note crochet chain trim above cast on edge.

EASY  SUPER BULKY HAT WITH A TWIST

MATERIALS: 
Yarn:
Shown is Lionbrand Thick & Quick in Linen, which is about $7-8 per skein.  Stitch definition will be better with lighter colors.  Stripes--well--not sure how the self-stripe ones would look but it may detract from the stitch definition.  If anyone tries, please let me know. 





Needles: 
Size 13. A circular needle with the skinny ends works best for the twisted stitch. I highly recommend a needle like that pictured below.  I think this is Loops and Threads brand but I'm not sure.  I AM 100% sure it was purchased at Michael's.  (Actually I stole mine from my friend Amy--I "borrowed" them and thought "why aren't more needles like this?"  FYI she has no clue about this blog, so, until someone clues her in, they are mine, mine, mine...)

I also recommend the circular needle over a straight needle even though this project is knitted flat and seamed.  The twisted stich is a bit harder on your hands, and the circular needle provides more relief.  Also, you can slide your work to the middle and poke it back in your purse for knitting on the go without fear that your work will fall off and/or have a "row mark" where it's sat on the needles too long.  I almost never use ordinary straight needles. 

Crochet hook:

A decent sized crochet hook for the surface crochet edge.  Size doesn't matter so long as it's big enough to grab the yarn through the fabric you've knitted. 

Gauge and Measurements
8.5 stitches x 14 rows = 4 inches in pattern stitch;
finished circumference before shaping 20" (small/med) and 22" (med/large)



Twisted Stockinette Stitch 
On RS rows, ktbl (knit through the back loop).  All knit stitches, even the k2tog are through the back loop.
On WS rows, purl


Pattern written for size small/medium (medium/large)
Cast on 41 (45) sts. (pull out about 90" (95") of yarn and this is sufficient to cast on the number required--I hate having to rip out a CO and start over...) 
Hat body
Begin with purl row.
Work in pattern stitch (ktbl on RS, purl WS) until hat measures 4.25" from cast on edge, ending with a purl row.  For me, this was 11 rows. Since this hat is to be fitted and snug, be careful in determining how long you want the hat to be before you begin shaping the crown.   A little shorter is better as you can block it when you are finished.  So, 4.25" might be slightly too long or short depending on the fit you desire.  You don't want this hat to be too tall as it will look like a boob on your head.  Trust me--it happens. 


Shaping
For med/large size only:
Row 1:  *K9 tbl, k2tog tbl; rep from * to last stitch, k1tbl
Row 2:  purl
For all sizes (med/large continue with the "second Row 1"; for sm/med, start here):
Row 1:  *K6 tbl, k2tog tbl; rep from * to last stitch, k1tbl
Even rows 2-8:  purl
Row 3:  *K5 tbl, k2tog tbl; rep from * to last stitch, k1tbl
Row 5:  *K4 tbl, k2tog tbl; rep from * to last stitch, k1tbl
Row 7:  *K3 tbl, k2tog tbl; rep from * to last stitch, k1tbl
Row 9:  *K2 tbl, k2tog tbl; rep from * to last stitch, k1tbl
Row 10:  *p1, p2tog;  rep from * to last stitch, p1
Row 11:  *K2tog tbl; rep from * to last stitch, 6 sts remain


Break yarn, leaving a very long tail, thread through remaining stitches twice to secure top.  Using remaining tail, seam side from top to bottom.


Bottom edge:  As a little decorative trim that prevents rolling of the edge, on the first row above the CO edge, crochet a chain by holding the working yarn on the WS and pulling through to the RS through the chain like the one shown below in a contrasting color:

My version was knitted flat and then seamed up the side, but you could easily knit this in the round by casting on 1 less stitch, alternating ktbl and k rounds with the same shaping but omitting the last k1tbl stitch on each twisted stitch round.  If you don't omit the 1 cast on stich, since seaming isn't necessary, the hat will be slightly larger when knit in the round if you follow the flat knit pattern.  This is due to no loss in selvedge stitches at the sides.  (It think this is knitting "TMI" but I decided to include it anyway. )


Another alternative version would be to knit  (instead of  ktbl) the first and last stitch of every RS row.  This makes seaming up the sides a little easier.


If you knit this, PLEASE send me a pic!  Tell me if the pattern needs any corrections, and, if needed, I'll knit a 48 stitch version for a larger size.


So, today, go make something awesome!

FREE COWL KNITTING PATTERN for a fast, useful Christmas present that will fit anyone!

You officially have 14 days left before Christmas.  OH MAN.  I should have performed that calculation before today.  Folks, it is past panic time.


Fortunately, my holiday break from the "real job" begins Monday.  Prepare for knit mania.  And for Christmas morning knitting. 

What I will post here is so simple that it is almost embarrassing to call it a pattern. 


Why I like it:
I HATE bulky or long scarves.  They get in my way, and, to make matters worse, when I try to tuck long ends in under my coat, I come out looking like a lop-sided version of Dolly Parton no matter how hard I try.  Regardless, long and dangly, floppy things aren't safe when I'm around the horses either--which is why I was never a fan of scarves in the first place.   Needless to say I'm not a fan of the massive infinity scarves.


What follows is roughly modeled after a Carhart knit neck warmer that was a gift.  I love it, but it's for barn use. 


THE PATTERN
SUPER SIMPLE NECK WARMER or THE COWL FOR DUMMIES

If you are a beginning knitter--perfect!  You can shape this project without any major shaping effort!


MATERIALS: 
Yarn:
Shown is Bernat Li'L Tots in Sweet Pea, which is about $4.00 per skein.  You will be able to make several with 1 skein, so this is a very inexpensive project.


Any lighter (in weight, not thickness) worsted (#4) yarn will work.  Li'L Tots comes in some neato colors, as do other yarns made by Red Heart and Lion Brand.   Li'L tots comes in some man-friendly colors too--so just because it's a "baby" yarn don't over look it.  It is not easy to find it in my area though : (


When picking your yarn--pick a yarn so that the color does the talking.  The stitch here is very plain, so pick an interesting yarn to stand out.  If you are a beginner, I would avoid yarns like Amazing or Unforgettable or any similar yarn that has minimal "twist"--they are a pain when you are learning as it is easy to split the fiber by stabbing in to the yarn itself. 


Needles: 
It is best to have at your disposal the following sizes:  5, 6, 7, and 8.  Again, if you are a beginner, head to the store and by "the" knitting needles...and by "the," I mean every size they make.  Seriously, you will eventually need every size known on Earth, so, might as well go ahead and do it now.  (Option #2 would be to sneak a pair in with those Walmart groceries every week...)


Gauge and Measurements
In the photo, note that the bottom is wider than the top.  You can easily customize this for wider necks and heads--just remember that it must be able to pass over the head to put it on. If the smallest section is wide enough to pop over the head, it's fine. 
Mine is as follows:
Bottom edge 9.25 inches; Top edge 8 inches; length (top to bottom) is 6.75 inches


Here's the interesting part--the change in width is done by simply changing gauge.
Gauge at bottom edge:  3.25 stitches x 6 rows = 1 inch
Gauge at top edge:  4 stitches x 6.5 rows = inch


This change is what causes the shaping, and this is done by simply changing needles to one or two sizes smaller 1/3, and then 2/3, of the way through the project.  Based on your own knitting style (and I know you are too lazy to actually do that insane gauge swatch), start with a size 7 or 8 and then go down to a 5 or 6.  If you are super lazy, or extra broke with one set of needles, you can knit more relaxed at the beginning and tighter later on.  The easy way to do this is to knit the last section while watching The Blacklist.  I suppose you could start the project drinking real eggnog and try to sober up later.  If you try that let me know how it goes.  I'm sure that's probably a very, very bad idea but the thought still makes me giggle. 


My version was knitted flat and then seamed up the side, but you could easily knit this in the round. 

THE ACTUAL "PATTERN" written for beginners (aka normal humans)


1.  Using the largest needle, cast on loosely (I mean it this time) approximately 60 stitches.  I have a small head and neck, so increase the # of stitches here for larger sizes as needed.
2.  Work 3 rows garter (knit every row)
3.  Knit 10 rows (knit even # rows and purl odd # rows)
4.  Change to smaller needle (one size down)  and knit 10 rows
5.  Change to smaller needles (one size down) and knit 18 to 15 more rows for a total of 38-45 rows; version shown has 38 rows. 
4.  Work  3 rows garter and bind off knitwise. 


Of course, this could easily be lengthened to "stack" on the neck more and/or made on the knitting machine by decreasing the gauge a little.  If I make a machine version--I'll post it. 


So, there you have it!  Simple, quick, affordable, and a perfect small gift for lots of people on your list, especially those with scarf-a-phobia and/or a memory of Dolly they would like to keep unscathed. 

Expensive Sock Yarns...worth the $?

Pattons Kroy Socks FX (color:  Celestial)

Socks are what started my knitting career.  Well, not exactly.  One Christmas, a long, long time ago, I thought I would learn to knit to make everyone in the family socks.  And matching mittens.  It was November. 

Who says that?  Someone who doesn't knit. 

My trip to the local yarn store (lovely, high end, out of my $ range then and now) didn't end well.  However, somehow a lovely German lady nicely talked me out of knitting a noose (it's just I-cord, anyway) or giving up the idea of knitting entirely. Remember, I wasn't the knitter, my mom was. My LYS expert said "socks are, well, hard..."


Actually, I don't remember being discouraged after leaving the LYS.  I did, however, realize I had to come up with Christmas craft gift idea 2.0 and resolve myself to learning to knit. 
This is the perfect time to mention how much I do want you to support your locally owned yarn store!  My El Cheapo yarn issue has nothing to do with the locally owned mom-and-pops specialty stores filled with amazing, expert people.  I try to buy at LYS as much as I can, even if it's just needles or something small.  My issue with expensive yarn is that there is absolutely no way I can afford to do the type (tough enough to wear in my life) and volume (LOTS) of knitting I need to do. 


Fast forward to now, many years later, and I'm a sock-a-holic.  I knitted so many socks in October, I was posting a pair a day on Facebook and decided to rename the month Socktober.  No one laughed.  Seriously, my husband was starting to get worried.  UNTIL he realized this year that I can quickly make socks for his coworkers.  I have finally arrived! 

How do I do it quickly?  My beginning disclaimer is that I will always be a hand knitter, even when tiny-yarn socks are in order.  My second one is that I'm insanely hyper.  Obviously, I'm a gal that needed a knitting "machine".  I won't discuss it too much here, but, I have equal numbers of knitting machines and horses. 
How many you may ask?  More than 2 and fewer than 20; also, 19 is a poor guess.  I am NOT going to answer.  The response will either be (1) I'm crazy to have so many--you can only use/ride one at a time, right?  or (2) I'm still an amateur and need to increase the collection.  Lose-lose, and I actually like my husband.  Adding one more of either item might end me up on the street corner.  On our street corner, there is nothing but a tree, and I can't knit a barn.  Or a horse trailer.  


Notice I put the word "machine" in quotes above.  The term "machine" as it applies to knitting machine is because they didn't want to call them "your quick way to the insane asylum."  In all cases, they can be frustrating, difficult, and super duper awesome.  It is hard work.  It is NOT cheating.  I can't imagine using a knitting machine without being able to hand knit--but there are people who do. 


I should add a third disclaimer.  I love old things.  Not antiques that sit around, I like old usable things.  This is where my 1924 Gearhart Circular Sock Machine comes in.  Commonly called "CSMs" they are simply incredible and simultaneously the most difficult craft item I've ever used. It's a good thing I have a Ph.D.  Too bad it wasn't in English as I am 100% certain that the old manuals written for the CSMs were either written by Jane Austin or Charles Dickens.  Seriously, prepare to read each page 87 times--and watch lots of YouTube CSM videos.  I'll post about "her" and my other older CSMs later....back to El Cheapo yarn...



Look at the photo below:

Can you tell which are made from Patons at $4-6 per sock as compared to Opal at $10-15 per sock?  My feet couldn't tell either, someone else's wallet could.  Wishing to see if a "better" sock yarn was indeed, better, I asked for sock yarn for Christmas last year--the orange one in the middle and the purple on the end are the results.  The Opal at the LYS where my family shopped cost $30 a 100g skein.  OUCH. 


What was the difference?  My CSM liked the Opal a little better--not extreme differences--but enough that I noticed.  The Opal handled me ripping out a sock twice, so it actually got knitted three times.  Depending on which Patons you use, sometimes it's not as forgiving.  In the wash, Patons wins.  The orange Opal socks found a tiny piece of Velcro looming in the washer and the Velcro won the war.  Patons can deal with my Velcro mistakes.  For comfort, I think Patons is a little better as it is a heavier bodied yarn, however, I'm not 100% sure if the tension is the same for both types...so, comfort could be due to construction differences.
 


Even Patons isn't super cheap--it's just cheaper.  This brings me to a few thoughts:
1.  WALMART, where ARE you?  I only very rarely see sock yarns at Walmart.  (Yes, Walmart--the devil to some, necessity to others.)  Last Christmas our local store (very rural, sells more tobacco than food) had several skeins of Red Heart Heart and sole.  It had to be a mistake order.  I bought them--all of them.  (Seriously, I've been hiding yarn purchases in my groceries for years...)

2.  Why aren't 100% "everyday" acrylic sock yarns available locally?  They do exist!  See  http://www.craftsy.com/supplies/premier-wool-free-sock-yarn/14659?maid=88799&swatch=453c40&ext=SEM_G_Shopping_EC_knitting_yarn_pfs_14659_product_18226&set_currency=US&adwd_id=c&adwadgr_id=9220300057&adwtarget_id=pla-85954786177&adwmtch_id=&adwad_id=45800927857&gclid=Cj0KEQiA4qSzBRCq1-iLhZ6Vsc0BEiQA1qt-znM-xN7YG1yDlDQlvrO7nNp-_0TorfcXfR5rOSV_ulwaArjC8P8HAQ
GOOD GRIEF--world's longest link? 

Premier has this 100% acrylic that is super affordable, but, I've only just discovered it via internet search.  Has anyone tried it?  I'm game to order, but would love to hear some feedback first. 
I would ask my LYS to order, however, I'm already labeled as "one of those machine people" who "buys acrylic yarn" so I'm worried that the Yarn Nazi may cut me off completely.  Anyone have a good granny costume I can borrow? 

3.  Premier--please do more!  See photo below:

These are Premier's Cotton Fair (#2).  I LOVE THESE.  However, my CSM does not.  I still make them using the CSM, but it takes forever and my Gearhart swears at me often. 
Please, and I am truly begging, Premier, make a yarn that's just 1 ply thinner...like a thicker #1?  A diet #2?  Just a tiny bit thinner and I'll love you forever.  I will knit your entire yarn production staff a pair on the antique CSM.  Just please, make it happen!  CSMs are growing in popularity, so I know I'm not the only one.  [Another Premier note is that AC Moore is apparently not carrying it any longer--total panic--2 months have passed--Michael's now has the Premier Cotton Fair.]
So, where are we now?  I'm comparing the Heart and Sole to Patons--from yesterday's socks:

They haven't had the toes completed (Russian Kitchener)--and I have 1 HNS sock to do as well.  I'm considering wearing the HNS so I can see how they handle life.  However, Christmas looms and I have a zillion more socks to make. 

Please comment, send feedback, and tell me what sock yarns work for you.
Off to finish that 2nd HNS sock...

IN DEFENSE OF CHEAP YARN EVERYWHERE...

One of my most prized possessions is a very simple blue cardigan knitted by my mother.  I've never worn it.  She never wore it.  Sadly, she passed away at a young age and never had the opportunity. 


What the sweater is not--expensive, "cheap", or unimportant.
What the sweater is--economical, a demonstration of skill and effort, and a treasure.


The sweater is made from 100% "el cheapo" acrylic.   


Why? 


It's what she had, what she could afford, and what we had available locally.  Growing up, we didn't have the luxury of high-end local yarn stores.  It wouldn't have mattered anyway--we didn't have the money for such things.  My memories of her in the quest for yarn was in the back of Hills, Kmart, a Ben Franklin or two--digging through stacks of economy yarn.  I prized myself as being THE dye-lot finder...and we made quite a game of it.  At the time, I wasn't a knitter, so this was my only contribution to the effort. 


Baby blanket after baby blanket--knit and crochet--with my mom's limited time, making small items for others was her goal.  I was never quite sure if that simple blue cardigan was even made for her--I only assumed.  If that's the case, it's the only item she ever made for her own use. 


I say all this in defense of CHEAP YARN. 


Not too long ago, on a machine knitting forum, I was attacked by a poster for my defense of Red Heart Super Saver.  Seriously--that lady needed to go knit herself a straight jacket.  Comments such as "why would you waste your time." or "I don't bother with low quality yarns..." were the nice comments.  YARN. SNOBBERY.


Now, as a knitter myself, it's not as if I haven't considered expensive yarns.  I quickly did the math on the poster's suggested yarn for my project and compared it to my RHSS version.  Her project?  Over $200.  Mine?  Under $9.  That's 191 reasons I'm not crazy. 


However, I have, from time to time, considered smaller projects like cowls and hats made from better, or even premium, yarns.  One recent lovely cowl pattern really grabbed my attention--LOVED IT--and I decided to ask for "THE" yarn for Christmas.  Then--math loomed--and the cowl would have cost $70.  I just can't.  $70????  for a cowl?!?! 


For all of these reasons, and because I'm tired of digging through forum files to find photos of inexpensive and reasonable knitting projects, I've started this blog.  If you have a project or story to share--please email me at equestrianknits@gmail.com so that your story can become a full post, not just a comment. 


What you will find here is
1.  a few of my own patterns made using inexpensive materials
2.  examples of high-end projects made with less expensive materials
3.  absence of yarn snobs.  EVER.  Seriously, if you're a yarn snob, there are plenty of other places on the web for you to visit. 


What I hope to have
-  YOU and YOUR projects!  I hope you will join in--share your honest cheaper yarn knitting and crochet adventures--successes and failures--in defense of cheap yarn everywhere.